Hindu Kush / Hindu Kush · Pakistan
Tirich Mir
7708 m·Independent peak·first ascent 1950
- Elevation
- 7708 m
- Prominence
- 3910 m
- Class
- Independent peak
- Range
- Hindu Kush / Hindu Kush
- Countries
- Pakistan
- Coordinates
- 36.2556° N / 71.8433° E
- First ascent
- 1950
- Climbed
- Yes
Overview
Tirich Mir is the high point of the Hindu Kush and the highest mountain that does not stand in the Himalaya or Karakoram. It rises above Chitral in Pakistan, close to the Afghan border. The massif is a cluster, not a single spike: the main west summit is 7,708 m; Tirich Mir East is 7,692 m. From town the whole group is visible. Prominence is about 3,900 m.
A Norwegian–British party made the first ascent in July 1950: Arne Næss, Per Kvernberg, Henry Berg, and Tony Streather, from the South Barum Glacier onto the south ridge. Kvernberg reached the main summit first; the others followed the next day. Annapurna had been climbed only days earlier, so Tirich Mir was briefly one of the highest summits anyone had stood on. Næss returned in 1964; Ralph Høibakk and Anders Opdal climbed the east summit by the south face. The northwest ridge from the Upper Tirich Glacier, opened by Czechoslovaks in 1967, is now the usual line. In 2023 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima made the first ascent of the north face.
Tirich Mir is the western door of this catalog. Everything east of here is Himalaya or Karakoram. The mountain is high, isolated from those ranges, and still rarely treated as a trade peak. en.wikipedia.org