Tian Shan / Tengri Tag · Kyrgyzstan · Kazakhstan · China
Khan Tengri
7,010 m·Independent peak·first ascent 1931
- Elevation
- 7,010 m
- Prominence
- 1,685 m
- Class
- Independent peak
- Range
- Tian Shan / Tengri Tag
- Countries
- Kyrgyzstan · Kazakhstan · China
- Coordinates
- 42.2109° N / 80.1754° E
- First ascent
- 1931
- Climbed
- Yes
- Guided
- Yes — commercial trips
Overview
Khan Tengri is the marble pyramid of the central Tian Shan, 7,010 m, on the borders of Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and China. It looks higher than it is. Until 1943 many people thought it was the high point of the range; Jengish Chokusu is taller. Anatoli Boukreev called it one of the most beautiful peaks on Earth. It is one of the five Snow Leopard 7000ers.
Mikhail Pogrebetsky, Boris Tyurin, and Franz Zaubrer made the first ascent on 11 September 1931 from the south, along the west ridge. That was the first Soviet climb of a 7000er. A northern route followed in 1964. Today the usual line is still the south-west ridge from the Inylchek Glacier, with a helicopter into base camp. Avalanches on the popular route have killed whole parties, including a large accident in 2004.
Khan Tengri is both a guided peak and a serious one. The shape is why people come. The weather and the seracs are why they fail.
Guiding companies
Listed because they advertise a trip. Not an endorsement.