Himalaya / Manaslu · Nepal
Himalchuli
7893 m·Independent peak·first ascent 1960

- Elevation
- 7893 m
- Prominence
- —
- Class
- Independent peak
- Range
- Himalaya / Manaslu
- Countries
- Nepal
- Coordinates
- 28.4367° N / 84.6397° E
- First ascent
- 1960
- Climbed
- Yes
Overview
Himalchuli is the high point of the Mansiri Himal south of Manaslu, 7,893 m. From the Marshyangdi it rises about 7,000 m in under 30 km. That relief, not the world rank, is what you see from the valley. West and north summits are separate named tops; the main summit is the middle of the three.
Attempts started in the 1950s. A Keio University expedition led by Jiro Yamada climbed it on 24 May 1960. Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada went up Sickle Ridge from the southwest, camped on the saddle between the west and main peaks, and used bottled oxygen — unusual on a peak under 8,000 m. Two more Keio climbers summited the next day.
Later parties have used south, southwest, and southeast lines. The west peak was climbed in 1978, the north peak in 1985. Himalchuli remains much quieter than Manaslu next door. On this site it is the big independent 7000er of the Gurkha / Mansiri group, not a side-trip from an 8000er permit. en.wikipedia.org