Karakoram / Panmah Muztagh · Pakistan

Baintha Brakk

The Ogre

7285 m·Independent peak·first ascent 1977

Baintha Brakk
Photo: Ben Tubby
Elevation
7285 m
Prominence
1891 m
Class
Independent peak
Range
Karakoram / Panmah Muztagh
Countries
Pakistan
Coordinates
35.9475° N / 75.7533° E
First ascent
1977
Climbed
Yes

Overview

Baintha Brakk, The Ogre, is a 7,285 m granite tower in the Panmah Muztagh of the Karakoram, above the Biafo. The mountain is a steep rock peak with a summit block that has to be climbed, not walked.

After failures in 1971 and 1976, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington reached the main summit on 13 July 1977, via the southwest spur, the west ridge, and the west summit. Mo Anthoine, Clive Rowland, and Nick Estcourt reached the west summit. The last pitch on the summit tower was hard rock climbing above 7,000 m. On the first rappel Scott broke both legs. On the descent Bonington broke ribs and developed pneumonia. They spent days in a storm, Scott crawling, and reached a nearly empty base camp. That descent is as famous as the ascent.

The second ascent of the main summit did not come until 2001. Twenty-four years and many failures sat between the two. The Ogre is not a guided 7000er and not an “easy” snow peak. It is on this site because the Karakoram has mountains that are famous for being awkward, not only for being high. en.wikipedia.org

Location

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